I used Floquil “earth” for a primer.

Paint is Gunze Mr Color.

I have several sets of the vinyl tracks that come with the kit.  Every track length has a thin flash running the entire length on both sides.  Because there is virtually no way to remove this flash, I feel that these tracks are unusable.  In addition, since none of these tracks are hidden behind shielding, they are a very prominent feature.  It is worth the extra effort to use an individual link track set.  The AFV Club T97E2 Early workable tracks are outstanding, Fig. 97.  They assemble easily and look great.

Each link requires removing the sprue attachment points (1) and touching up the edge so that there is a nice uniform spacing between links.  I found it helpful to take a blade and clean up the slot (3) so that the links worked a little better.  Some modelers might want to fill the ejector pin marks (2), but because I am not painting the entire link I left them alone.

I assembled the links as per the instructions, Fig. 99.  Five links at a time does seem to work out the best.  All the parts lie flat on the table surface and slide together easily.  I used 78 links.  Once together on the suspension, the compensating idler was adjusted and cemented in place, Fig. 100.

Initially, I thought I would make a new compensating idler arm.  However, since I had an extra set, I came up with an easier method.  I cut the shock and both arms free off the extra pieces, Fig. 101.  I removed the arm off the piece mounted to the tank and just cemented in the new piece, Fig. 102.  It was a drop fit that took no time at all.

Alignment of the individual links is a key element.  To help straighten out the upper run, I slipped a piece of sheet styrene between the bottom of the fender and the tracks, Fig. 103.

My ultimate goal in finish for this model was to recreate the look of a new tank as represented in a tech manual illustration (as shown below) or a fine profile drawing.

Here are 4 views of the model before the final details and touch up.  These illustrate the look that I was attempting to achieve with this model.  The images were taken using a 180mm macro lens.  This allowed me to be positioned well back from the model in order to minimize convergence.  Therefore, these images should be useful for those who might want to compare profile dimensions of the model with the prototype.

Line drawing by D. P. Dyer scanned from R. P. Hunnicutt’s book “Patton: A History of the American Main Battle Tank” is overlaid over one of the above photographs.  I make no claim as to the accuracy of either the model or the drawing.  This comparison was done simply out of curiosity.

Images of completed model.

LINKS

The AFV Datatbase:  http://afvdb.50megs.com/usa/m48patton.html

KC AMPS Gallery – Gary Owsley:  http://kcamps.org/gallery3/reference/m48a3

Prime Portal:  http://www.primeportal.net/the_battlefield_armor.htm

Tankmaster:  http://www.thetankmaster.com/tanks.asp

Toadman’s Tank Pictures:  http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/nato.htm

Bill Maloney:  http://www.williammaloney.com/Aviation/MilitaryMuseumOfSouthernNewEngland/M48A1MediumTank/index.htm

Missing Lynx:  http://www.missing-lynx.com/